Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

 The Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, Panjim, Goa

Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Imaculada Conceição, Panjim, Goa

The iconic 'Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception' (Portuguese: Igreja de Nossa Senhora da Imaculada Conceição), Patroness of Panjim Parish,  is located on a hillock in the vicinity of the historic Idalcao Palace (built-in 1500 by Yusuf Adil Shah of Bijapur, also known as Adil Khan or Hidalcão).

Wooden carving depicting Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception on the ceiling of the Church with the inscription "Immaculada Conceição de Maria. Orai Por Nos. Oferecdio Palo Presidente da Festa Andre Camillo De Mello 8 De Dezembro De 1886" which translates to "Immaculate Conception of Mary. Pray for us. Offered by the President of the feast, Andre Camillo de Mello. December 8, 1886"

The church takes its name, Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, from a dogma of faith that Pope Pius IX proclaimed on 8 December, 1854, titled 'Ineffabilis Deus'. It states that “the Blessed Virgin Mary in the first instant of her conception, by a singular privilege and grace granted by God, in view of the merits of Jesus Christ, the Saviour of the human race, was preserved exempt from all stain of original sin". In effect it says Our Lady was born chaste without original sin and lived her life free from sin, to carry out God's mission of being the perfect bearer of Our Lord Jesus Christ, the Son of God.

Legend has it that this is one of six ermidas (or hermitages, isolated chapels, shrines or sanctuaries), which was first built at this site in 1541 so that sailors arriving from the six-month-long perilous sea voyage from Lisbon could give thanks to God for safe passage to Goa. Grateful sailors disembarked at the once-sleepy village of Panjim, which was their first port of call in colonial Portuguese India, before proceeding further inland up the Mandovi (also known as Mhadei or Mahadeyi) River to Velha Goa (now Old Goa) [1], which was then the administrative capital, and since 1530 the capital of Estado da India, until severe epidemics of cholera, malaria and other tropical diseases exacerbated by the poor quality of potable water decimated the population of Velha Goa, resulting in a 19th-century royal decree officially moving the administrative capital to Panjim (now Panaji).  

By a royal decree dated 27th November 1606, Panjim and Santa Inez were split from the larger and more vibrant parish of Taleigão to form separate parishes. The old ermida was elevated to the status of a parochial church by Archbishop Dom Frei Aleixo de Jesu de Menezes (c. 1559–1617). At about the same time, an asylum for destitute women was also built there, and in 1584, the Dominican order started St Thomas Aquinas College to teach Philosophy, Theology, Language and Arts, due to the problem of poisonous snakes it was subsequently relocated to Panelim, near St Pedro Church in 1596 [2].

In 1619, the successor of Dom Frei Aleixo de Meneses, one Dom Frie Cristóvão de Sá e Lisboa OFM (c. 1583-1652), ordered the old ermida to be demolished and a new and bigger church to be built in its place. The new church, now over 400 years old, like the old ermida, stood on the western slope of the Oiteiro da Conceição. Behind it, there was a lighthouse, in the middle of what was known as the Ward of Pilots (Portuguese: Bairro dos Pilotos). The Square of Flowers (Portuguese: Praca de Flores) was added in 1843 [9]. 

On the southern side, behind the church, was situated the old parochial graveyard of Panjim but it fell into disuse with the creation of the Corte de Outerio in 1878 by the dynamic Governor Caetano Alexandre Almeida de Alburquerque (c. 1824-1916, later Governor General of Cape Verde and subsequently of Angola). Shortly thereafter all burials took place at the St. Agnes, Virgin and Martyr Church in Santa Inez (also known as St. Inez Church and Cemetery, dedicated to St Agnes, a 12th-century virgin and martyr from Rome), following the first burial, of Jose Messias Gomes da Silva on January 2, 1879 [2].

 

The imposing white Baroque facade of the present-day Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception is an amalgam of Portuguese and Goan architectural styles with twin balustraded towers and a high central gable or belfry built from the local laterite stone draped in a lustrous white plaster.

 

The Bell atop the central belfry has the initials AM for Ave Maria (Photo: Neofito Victor Rodriguez [11])

The tall belfry atop the central facade houses the second-largest church bell in Goa, installed in 1871. The bell was rescued from the ruins of the Augustinian Church of Our Lady of Grace (Portuguese: Nossa Senhora da Graça built between 1597 and 1602, and abandoned in 1835 when the Augustine Order were expelled, resulting in the decay and eventual collapse of the 150m high belfry in 1846 [6]) on what was called Holy Hill, Portuguese: Monte Santo). The bell was initially relocated to a chapel in Fort Aguada to tell time for ships in the harbor until a decision was taken in 1871 to install it in the more prominent Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception, after Panaji became the capital of Goa. The bell was purportedly so heavy (2250 kg) that they needed to reinforce the belfry structure for it to bear the added load [4]. The bell is the second largest of its kind in Goa, surpassed only by the mellifluous Golden Bell of the Sé Cathedral in Old Goa. Se Cathedral (Portuguese: Sé Catedral de Santa Catarina) was built between 1562 and 1652 to commemorate the victory of Afonso de Albuquerque (c. 1453-1515) over the forces of Yusuf Adil Shah (c. 1450-1510, also known as Adil Khan or Hidalcão) on 25th November, the feast of St. Catherine of Alexandria. 

Nossa Senhora dos Remédios, Lamego - inspiration for the zigzag steps (Photo: roteirododouro)

The stairways (Portuguese: Escadaria de Igreja) leading up to the Church of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception are a double flight of stairs zigzagging with one middle and four side landings arranged in perfect symmetry. This laterite-stone stairway was added to the church in 1870 and is possibly modelled after the Church of Our Lady of Remedios (Portuguese: Nossa Senhora dos Remédios), in Lamego, Portugal [9]. 

Statute of the Blessed Virgin Mary

A beautiful marble statue of the Blessed Virgin Mary stands on a 5m high masonry pedestal on the middle landing of the stairway in front of the church. Its foundation stone was laid by the then Vicar General, J J De Abreu, on October 29, 1904, to mark the Golden Jubilee of the proclamation of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception by Pope Pius IX on 8 December 1854 [1].

To commemorate the first centenary of the proclamation of the dogma of the Immaculate Conception in 1954, there is a plaque on the pedestal with the following engraving in Portuguese: "Em comemoração do 1° Congresso Mariano realizado nesta cidade de 23 de Nov a 1 de Dez de 1954. Pelo 1° centenário da definição dogmática da Imaculada Conceição de Nossa Senhora a arquidiocese primacial e patriacal de Goa e Damão se consagra oa Imaculado Coração de Maria 8-12-54"

This translates to the following: In commemoration of the 1st Marian Congress held in this city from Nov 23 to Dec 1, 1954. On the 1st centenary of the Dogmatic definition of the Immaculate Conception of Our Lady, the Primal and Patriarchal Archdiocese of Goa and Damão consecrates itself to the Immaculate Heart of Mary 8-12-54

Church nave

The church is laid out in the traditional cruciform fashion with a nave (central part of the Church, derived from the Latin navis for ship, where the faithful can sit or stand during worship) and a transept (shorter transverse arms of a cruciform that provide additional place where faithful can sit or stand during worship)[3].

The tabernacle altar

The tabernacle altar built in the Renaissance style is dedicated to Mother Mary and is backed by a fantastically carved and gilded reredos (the ornamental screen covering the wall at the back of an altar). The twisted columns are reminiscent of the elaborate bronze and gilded twisted columns of avant-garde Italian sculptor-architect Gian Lorenzo Bernini's baldacchino or ciborium (c. 1623-1634) in St. Peter's Basilica in Vatican City, Rome.

The main altar

On the main altar, you can also see a bas-relief carving (sculpting figures and objects onto a 2D surface to create and accentuate a 3D appearance) of the 'Last Supper of Jesus with his twelve Apostles'. 

There are two other side altars intricately carved, gold-plated and decorated on either side of the main altar. The one to the left is of 'Jesus Crucified' and the one to the right is of 'Our Lady of the Rosary'. Near these two side altars, there are marble statues of St. Peter and St. Paul, whose Solemnity is jointly observed on June 29 in honour of their martyrdom in Rome. 

The ambo for the readings 

The ambo, used for readings during liturgical services, depicts the Holy Spirit descending in the traditional form of a dove. 

Church pulpit

Along the Northern side of the nave, is a pulpit where preachers of yore would deliver sermons to the faithful.

Altar of The Sacred Heart of Jesus

Along the middle of the nave, across from the pulpit, is an elaborately carved altar of the Sacred Heart of Jesus

Pipe organ

In the choir loft is a 56-key Pipe Organ donated by parishioner Antonio Sebastian Valente in 1890 and built by Gebrüder Link in Giengen an der Brenz, Baden-Württemberg, Germany. It was designed around a tonal basis of 8 feet Open Diapason, 8 feet Dulciana and 4 feet Flute. It uses key action and mechanical stops. Each stop has a set of 56 pipes. Here is a list of all seven pipe organs in Goan churches all over 100 years old: The Holy Spirit Church, Margao, The Se Cathedral of St Catherine and the Basilica of Bom Jesus, both at Old Goa, The Church of the Immaculate Conception, Panjim, The Church of Salvador do Mundo, Loutulim and The Rachol Seminary [5].

The side chapel of St Francis Xavier

In the southern part of the transept is the chapel of St. Francis Xavier (also known as Francisco de Jassu y Javier or Goencho Saib, the Principal Patron Saint of the East Indies and of the Missions, c. 1506-1552). His seemingly incorruptible mortal remains are laid in a silver casket, a gift of Cosimo III de' Medici (c. 1642-1723), the 6th and penultimate Grand Duke of Tuscany, kept in the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, where his feast is celebrated every December 3rd with great reverence. Solemn exposition of the 'sacred relics' is held every ten years in Old Goa, with the next one scheduled for November 2024.

The hallway leading to the Church office has two eye-catching murals using the traditional blue and white Azulejo (from Arabic zellij for “cut or polished stone”) tiles. Azulejos are a classic Portuguese decorative art form that dates back to the 14th century. Even though the iconic Azulejo is now synonymous with Portuguese art, the style inspired by Ming porcelain has been heavily influenced by Islamic, Dutch and Italian cultures. Some Azulejos tell a story and chronicle major religious or cultural events in the form of a mural. The two murals are 'The Baptism of Our Lord in the River Jordan by John the Baptist' and 'The Last Supper' evocative of the iconic painting by the Italian High Renaissance maestro Leonardo da Vinci that dates back to 1495–1498.

Statute of Our Lady of Fatima

The statue of Our Lady of Fatima inside the church was blessed by Cardinal Dom José da Costa Nunes (c. 1880-1976, Patriarch of the East Indies from 1940 to 1953) in 1945, and crowned by Norman Cardinal Gilroy (c. 1896-1977) of Sydney, Australia in 1950. The crown of the statue, made of gold and precious stones, was gifted by the local women [10]. The statue is carried in a candlelight procession every year on October 13, on the Feast of Our Lady of Fatima to commemorate her final appearance to the three shepherd children of Fatima (Lúcia Santos, Francisco Marto and Jacinta Marto) and the occurrence of the 'Miracle of the Sun' (Portuguese: Milagre do Sol) on October 13, 1917. 

Statute of Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception

Every 8th of December, parishioners of the Church celebrate the Feast of the Immaculate Conception with great pomp and fervour. 

The Church at Night

The celebrations are preceded by a nine-day novena to Our Lady. The church facade is bathed with a glow of blue and white lights which reflect the colours of Our Lady. 

December 8th Procession (Photo: Herald Goa)

After the feast Mass, the Cionfrarias dressed in opa and murça carry the statue of Our Lady in procession around the Chruch Square with a brass band, supplicating Our Lady and asking for her intercession. After the procession there used to be a fireworks display but in keeping with modern environmental concerns this has been suspended. The band however continues to play festive music while people enjoy themselves, walking amongst the stalls selling festive sweets or khajem like kaddio boddio, ladoos, halwa, jalebi, rewddio and fried tapioca chips. There are also stalls selling miniature statuettes, souvenirs, and garments to name just a few. 

Boas festas!! Happy Feast!!

Acknowledgement

My sincere thanks to Rev. Dr Walter de Sa, the present Parish Priest of the Church of Our Lady of Immaculate Conception, Panjim for his guidance, support and editorial inputs in researching and writing this disquisition - Kieran Gonsalves, Mountain View, California.

References

1. GT Desk, & GT Desk. (2021, December 7). All about Panjim’s most famous Church. Gomantak Times. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://www.gomantaktimes.com/my-goa/art-culture/history-of-panjim-church

2. Posted by:Lester Silveira. (2018, March 23). Santa Inez Church & Cemetery – An architectural analysis. The Balcao. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://thebalcao.com/santa-inez-church-cemetery-architectural-analysis/

3. Goa Tourism Development Corporation Limited (GTDC). (n.d.). Our Lady of Immaculate Conception. Goa Tourism. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://goa-tourism.com/church/our-lady-of-immaculate-conception/

4. Goa Tourism Development Corporation Limited (GTDC). (n.d.). Ruins of the Church of St. Augustine. Goa Tourism. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://goa-tourism.com/church/ruins-of-the-church-of-st-augustine/

5. D’Souza, M. (2022, April 20). Rachol Seminary Pipe organ restored. Daijiworld.com. Retrieved December 1, 2023, from https://www.daijiworld.com/index.php/news/newsDisplay?newsID=950015

6. Cartwright, M. (2021). Portuguese Goa. World History Encyclopedia. https://www.worldhistory.org/Portuguese_Goa/#:~:text=Goa%2C%20located%20on%20the%20west,Good%20Hope%20for%20450%20years.

7. Wikipedia contributors. (2023, June 21). Our Lady of the Immaculate Conception Church, Goa. Wikipedia. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Our_Lady_of_the_Immaculate_Conception_Church,_Goa

8. The Church Of Our Lady Of Immaculate Conception. (n.d.). Thrillophilia. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://www.thrillophilia.com/attractions/the-church-of-our-lady-of-immaculate-conception

9. Trawell.In. (n.d.). Church Of Our Lady Of The Immaculate Conception, Panjim - Timings, History, Best time to visit. Trawell.in. https://www.trawell.in/goa/panjim/church-of-our-lady-of-the-immaculate-conception

10. Evelyn Siqueira. (2022, December 8). Did you know these 10 cool facts about Panjim Church? Gomantak Times. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://www.gomantaktimes.com/my-goa/art-culture/did-you-know-these-10-cool-facts-about-panjim-church

11. Rodriguez, N. V. (2018, February 16). The Panjim Church Bell. A Beautiful Life. Retrieved November 30, 2023, from https://neofytosblog.wordpress.com/2018/02/16/the-panjim-church-bell/