Spring blossoms at Willowgate Community Garden
Spring blossoms at Willowgate Community Garden
We've had some pretty wet weather this spring and there has been a lot of talk about the weeds in Willowgate Community Garden, but today I want to take you on a visual tour of some of the spring blossoms.
And while we are about it, I'll share some tips to grow Irises, Roses and Blackberries and beneficial flowering plants ... so without further ado, let's get started.
Bearded Iris
California Gold
Poshy Purple Bearded Iris
Best grown in full sun, Bearded Irises (Iris germanica, so sometimes called German Irises) grow from shallow, fleshy roots called rhizomes. Their distinctive flowers have three upright petals called "standards" and three cascading petals called "falls". Running down the centre of each fall near the base is a “beard” that resembles a furry caterpillar.
The leaves of the bearded iris are flattened and sword-like, and the plants grow to varying heights. Dwarf varieties may stand just a few inches tall, while tall varieties can reach 3 feet or more.
Each flowering stem will hold several buds that will bloom sequentially, usually lasting 3-5 days. Once it is finished, simply snap it off with your fingers to keep a clean look and to keep more flowers coming. After all the buds have bloomed, cut the stem back near ground level.
Bearded iris should be divided every 3-5 years to maintain good health and abundant flowering. The best time to do this is mid-summer, about a month after the flowers have finished blooming. Use scissors to cut the foliage back to one-third of the original height. Dig out the clumps and put them on a tarp. Gently separate healthy new rhizomes on the outside from the older, less-productive rhizomes that are located toward the centre of the clump. Discard any rhizomes with iris borer insect damage holes or soft spots.
When dividing large rhizomes, make sure each section has at least one set of 3 to 4 leaves. Replant only the healthiest, most vigorous groups of rhizomes, allowing about 10-12" of space between the clumps. Iris rhizomes should be planted so they are at or just slightly below the soil surface. After planting, the very top of the rhizome should still be visible. Planting too deeply can cause the rhizomes to rot and will reduce flower production. No need to mulch but in very hot climates, it’s OK to cover the rhizome with up to 1 inch of soil to protect it from extreme heat. But keep the area weed-free!
Roses
Acapella Rose
Mainzer Fastnacht Rose
California Dreaming Rose
Plant the appropriate disease-resistant rose (Rosa rubiginosa; there's a vast variety to choose from depending on your garden layout from patio roses to shrub roses, ramblers and climbers) in a sunny location (6-8 hours of direct sunlight) with good drainage.
Roses are hungry plants. Mulch annually with organic matter such as well-rotted animal manure, and consider using a rose feed to promote flowering in summer. Fertilize them regularly with a balanced NPK or specialized rose-feed for impressive flowers.
Water the base (never the leaves) evenly to keep the soil moist but avoid standing water.
Clean up all potentially diseased rose leaves that have fallen from the plant. Fungal spores on fallen leaves can overwinter and return in the spring to infect the plant.
When pruning established roses in early spring, prune with the understanding that opening the centre of the plant or shrub will allow for better light penetration and air circulation. Allowing more light and air into the centre of the plant will create an environment that is less favourable to the development of fungal diseases.
Most nursery-bought container roses are grafted, meaning the rootstock is a disease and drought-resistant rose bush with an unappealing bloom. The desirable rose is grafted as a scion onto the rootstock to provide the best of both worlds. But that doesn't mean the rootstock does not have a life of its own. From time to time you will see new rose shoots emerging from below the graft point even below the soil level. These are called suckers and need to be culled. How to identify suckers on roses? Rose suckers have different leaves to the foliage on the main plant – they might have a different number of leaflets and are usually a different colour, often palerthan the leaves on the main plant.
Watch for rose diseases like powdery mildew or black spots - remove the diseased leaves and throw them in the trash, do not compost in the garden as the fungus can survive and come back to reinfect.
Powdery mildew typically appears during the summer, especially when the days are hot and dry and the nights are cool and wet. The tell-tale signs include leaves that curl and twist and the development of a white, powdery down on the leaves. To avoid powdery mildew, water plants at ground level in the morning, since wet leaves (especially overnight) provide the perfect growing environment. Pruning a rose bush to allow air to circulate through the foliage also helps prevent this powdery growth.
Black spot is a waterborne fungal disease. It appears as circular black or brown spots on the top side of leaves. It starts toward the bottom of a bush and works its way up, eventually causing defoliation. Prevent this disease the same way you prevent powdery mildew: by improving air circulation around and through the plant, and watering at ground level. A simple mixture of baking soda and horticultural oil can help fight the spread of black spots.
Thornless blackberry
Natchez Thornless Blackberry
Blackberries can be eaten fresh, mixed into smoothies or used to make syrup, jams, jelly and liqueurs. Pick the berries when black, they should yield without effort. Berries do not ripen after being picked.
All Thornless Blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) are perennials, which means the roots survive year after year. However, the top of the plant above the soil is what we call biennial (2-year life-cycle but more on this later).
Blackberry canes can handle a little shade but prefer trellis support with full sun for the best bloom and fruit production. Most thornless varieties are not invasive and will not spread like wildfire through your garden. They are self-pollinating but also attract pollinators, especially bumble bees. They produce distinctive white flowers throughout summer which are followed by attractive, delicious, deep purplish berries. Furthermore, blackberries have little to no disease issues (other than orange rust); the only pest problems are birds and two-legged rats stealing the berries.
Keep the soil moist, rich, loamy and well-drained but not soggy. Berries are heavy feeders so use a 10-10-10 or a 16-16-8 NPK fertilizer in early spring along with broken-down farmyard manure at the end of fall. Mulching the base of the plant with untreated mulch will help ensure moist, cool soil.
The key thing to remember is that thornless blackberries canes take two years to finish their lifecycle. During the first year, the canes sprout and grow to their full height. Canes are produced from both the roots and the crown. The canes go dormant for the winter. In the second year, the canes burst into life with new leaves, flowers, and fruits. At the same time, the roots are producing new first-year canes. After fruiting, the second-year canes canes brown out and wither at summer ends. Some people tie a tiny ribbon marker to indicate which canes have fruit but there are always telltale signs of fruiting sprigs. These spent canes will need to be pruned over the winter when the plant is dormant, to allow new growth for the next year’s harvest.
We've had some pretty wet weather this spring and there has been a lot of talk about the weeds in Willowgate Community Garden, but today I want to take you on a visual tour of some of the spring blossoms.
And while we are about it, I'll share some tips to grow Irises, Roses and Blackberries and beneficial flowering plants ... so without further ado, let's get started.
Bearded Iris
 |
| California Gold |
 |
| Poshy Purple Bearded Iris |
Best grown in full sun, Bearded Irises (Iris germanica, so sometimes called German Irises) grow from shallow, fleshy roots called rhizomes. Their distinctive flowers have three upright petals called "standards" and three cascading petals called "falls". Running down the centre of each fall near the base is a “beard” that resembles a furry caterpillar.
The leaves of the bearded iris are flattened and sword-like, and the plants grow to varying heights. Dwarf varieties may stand just a few inches tall, while tall varieties can reach 3 feet or more.
Each flowering stem will hold several buds that will bloom sequentially, usually lasting 3-5 days. Once it is finished, simply snap it off with your fingers to keep a clean look and to keep more flowers coming. After all the buds have bloomed, cut the stem back near ground level.
Bearded iris should be divided every 3-5 years to maintain good health and abundant flowering. The best time to do this is mid-summer, about a month after the flowers have finished blooming. Use scissors to cut the foliage back to one-third of the original height. Dig out the clumps and put them on a tarp. Gently separate healthy new rhizomes on the outside from the older, less-productive rhizomes that are located toward the centre of the clump. Discard any rhizomes with iris borer insect damage holes or soft spots.
When dividing large rhizomes, make sure each section has at least one set of 3 to 4 leaves. Replant only the healthiest, most vigorous groups of rhizomes, allowing about 10-12" of space between the clumps. Iris rhizomes should be planted so they are at or just slightly below the soil surface. After planting, the very top of the rhizome should still be visible. Planting too deeply can cause the rhizomes to rot and will reduce flower production. No need to mulch but in very hot climates, it’s OK to cover the rhizome with up to 1 inch of soil to protect it from extreme heat. But keep the area weed-free!
Roses
 |
| Acapella Rose |
 |
| Mainzer Fastnacht Rose |
 |
| California Dreaming Rose |
Plant the appropriate disease-resistant rose (Rosa rubiginosa; there's a vast variety to choose from depending on your garden layout from patio roses to shrub roses, ramblers and climbers) in a sunny location (6-8 hours of direct sunlight) with good drainage.
Roses are hungry plants. Mulch annually with organic matter such as well-rotted animal manure, and consider using a rose feed to promote flowering in summer. Fertilize them regularly with a balanced NPK or specialized rose-feed for impressive flowers.
Water the base (never the leaves) evenly to keep the soil moist but avoid standing water.
Clean up all potentially diseased rose leaves that have fallen from the plant. Fungal spores on fallen leaves can overwinter and return in the spring to infect the plant.
When pruning established roses in early spring, prune with the understanding that opening the centre of the plant or shrub will allow for better light penetration and air circulation. Allowing more light and air into the centre of the plant will create an environment that is less favourable to the development of fungal diseases.
Most nursery-bought container roses are grafted, meaning the rootstock is a disease and drought-resistant rose bush with an unappealing bloom. The desirable rose is grafted as a scion onto the rootstock to provide the best of both worlds. But that doesn't mean the rootstock does not have a life of its own. From time to time you will see new rose shoots emerging from below the graft point even below the soil level. These are called suckers and need to be culled. How to identify suckers on roses? Rose suckers have different leaves to the foliage on the main plant – they might have a different number of leaflets and are usually a different colour, often paler
than the leaves on the main plant.
Watch for rose diseases like powdery mildew or black spots - remove the diseased leaves and throw them in the trash, do not compost in the garden as the fungus can survive and come back to reinfect.
Powdery mildew typically appears during the summer, especially when the days are hot and dry and the nights are cool and wet. The tell-tale signs include leaves that curl and twist and the development of a white, powdery down on the leaves. To avoid powdery mildew, water plants at ground level in the morning, since wet leaves (especially overnight) provide the perfect growing environment. Pruning a rose bush to allow air to circulate through the foliage also helps prevent this powdery growth.
Black spot is a waterborne fungal disease. It appears as circular black or brown spots on the top side of leaves. It starts toward the bottom of a bush and works its way up, eventually causing defoliation. Prevent this disease the same way you prevent powdery mildew: by improving air circulation around and through the plant, and watering at ground level. A simple mixture of baking soda and horticultural oil can help fight the spread of black spots.
Thornless blackberry
 |
| Natchez Thornless Blackberry |
Blackberries can be eaten fresh, mixed into smoothies or used to make syrup, jams, jelly and liqueurs. Pick the berries when black, they should yield without effort. Berries do not ripen after being picked.
All Thornless Blackberries (Rubus fruticosus) are perennials, which means the roots survive year after year. However, the top of the plant above the soil is what we call biennial (2-year life-cycle but more on this later).
Blackberry canes can handle a little shade but prefer trellis support with full sun for the best bloom and fruit production. Most thornless varieties are not invasive and will not spread like wildfire through your garden. They are self-pollinating but also attract pollinators, especially bumble bees. They produce distinctive white flowers throughout summer which are followed by attractive, delicious, deep purplish berries. Furthermore, blackberries have little to no disease issues (other than orange rust); the only pest problems are birds and two-legged rats stealing the berries.
Keep the soil moist, rich, loamy and well-drained but not soggy. Berries are heavy feeders so use a 10-10-10 or a 16-16-8 NPK fertilizer in early spring along with broken-down farmyard manure at the end of fall. Mulching the base of the plant with untreated mulch will help ensure moist, cool soil.
The key thing to remember is that thornless blackberries canes take two years to finish their lifecycle. During the first year, the canes sprout and grow to their full height. Canes are produced from both the roots and the crown. The canes go dormant for the winter. In the second year, the canes burst into life with new leaves, flowers, and fruits. At the same time, the roots are producing new first-year canes. After fruiting, the second-year canes canes brown out and wither at summer ends. Some people tie a tiny ribbon marker to indicate which canes have fruit but there are always telltale signs of fruiting sprigs. These spent canes will need to be pruned over the winter when the plant is dormant, to allow new growth for the next year’s harvest.
Beneficial flowering plants
Beneficial flowers attract pollinators. Native beneficial flowering plants like California Poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Calendula (Calendula officinalis) and Borage (Borago officinalis) self-seed and are found everywhere ensuring bees and butterflies come to your garden - I found all of these and many more in my walk through.
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| Borage |
Borage (Borago officinalis) is a herbaceous plant appreciated for its diverse uses and distinctive appearance. With wrinkled, hairy leaves and vibrant blue star-shaped flowers, this beneficial attracts bumble bees growing to a height of 24-36 inches, its edible blue flowers, often pink, provide a sweet garnish for desserts with a sweet cucumber taste. Borage effortlessly thrives in various soils, reseeding itself and complementing other plants as a beneficial companion.
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| Dianthus Dianthus (Dianthus caryophyllus) are low-maintenance beneficial plants that attract butterflies and hummingbirds, as well as pollinating insects. Furthermore, it blooms in nearly every colour, from white to almost black. and comes in a range of shapes and sizes, from low-ground covers to upright varieties. |
 |
| Geum |
Geums (Avens) start blooming in late spring, attracting flocks of pollinators (especially butterflies) as they continue to flower into summer. They can face downwards (like hellebores), outwards, or upwards, looking good from every angle. Flowers are long-lasting before fading into feathery, smoke-like seed heads, making them perfect for cut arrangments at any stage.
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| Nasturtium Nasturtiums (Tropaeolum majus) are beneficial plants that are often used as trap crops for attracting aphids or squash bugs. Nasturtium companion plants can draw such pests away from vegetable plants like tomatoes and squash. They also attract good bugs such as pollinators and hoverflies, a predator of common pests like aphids. |
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| Pansies |
Pansies (Viola tricolor) grow well in a wide variety of soil textures and pH levels, so finding perennial companions is quite simple. Spring bulbs, iris, bleeding hearts, columbine, lupines, and hardy primrose all bloom when Pansy is actively growing early in the spring. Plant Pansies as a ground cover at the front of a bed to help suppress early weeds.
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| Purple Statice |
Statice (Limonium sinuatum) flowers are long-lasting annuals with sturdy stems and compact, colourful blooms that are highly desirable as cut flowers. Statice cut-flowers are long-lasting in the vase, whether fresh or dried. When growing statice as cut flowers for fresh bouquets, both foliage and protrusions should be stripped from lower stems to provide more longevity. They also look attractive in dried arrangements and cut plants can be hung upside down in bunches and placed in a dark location with cool temperatures for drying.
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| Sweet Williams |
Sweet William's (Dianthus barbatus) versatility and appealing aesthetic have cemented its status as a floral industry favourite. In the garden, bees, butterflies, hummingbirds and other pollinators are all drawn to the long-lasting blooms. Sweet William is a gift that keeps on giving, coming back as a perennial propagated by self-seeding or cuttings. However, while Sweet William is a friend to pollinators, it is toxic to cats and dogs, so it's best kept out of reach from your furry pets.
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| Valerian Valerian (Valeriana officinalis) makes a great garden plant. It seems to help nearby plants by stimulating phosphorus and earthworm activity. A decoction made from the roots and sprayed on the ground will attract earthworms. The mineral-filled leaves can be added to your compost, too. |
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| Violas |
The fast-growing varieties of Violas (family Violaceae) grown as garden plants are mostly small-flowered annuals or short-lived perennial violas. Many violas will come back every year thanks to self-seeding. Furthermore, violas are edible flowers and make unexpected garnishes and salad ingredients. In warm climates, violas are a good over-planting for spring-blooming bulbs like daffodils and tulips.
In case you want to deter pests then you can plant some of these. We've all heard how Chives, Leeks, and Onions (Allium spp.) deter pests including damaging cabbage moths, aphids, and spider mites. Likewise, strong aromatic and resinous herbs like Sage (Salvia officinalis), Rosemary (Rosmarinus officinalis), and Thyme (Thymus vulgaris) are also deterrents. Strongly aromatic herbs in the daisy family including Chamomile (Chamaemelum nobile) and Marigolds (genus Tagetes) ward off tomato root-knot nematodes
Loved the article and the beautiful flowers.
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