Pilgrimage to Santiago de Compostela
Our pilgrimage walk to Santiago de Compostela via the Portuguese Camino
In September 2019, four of us undertook the Portuguese Camino (Camino de los Portugueses) pilgrimage covering 115 km from Valença do Minho in Northern Portugal to Santiago de Compostela in Galicia, Spain. This is the last segment of the Portuguese Way (some cover 250km starting at Porto, others cover over 600km starting from Lisbon itself). The route from Lisbon to Santiago de Compostela has a great historical tradition dating back to the 12th century. Isabel de Portugal made a pilgrimage to Santiago in the 14th century, after the death of Don Dinís.
'Buen Camino' would become a common greeting among fellow peregrinos.
This section of the Camino Portuguese goes through the Albarino Wine region. Due to the proximity of the Atlantic ocean the wine has a unique light refreshing taste and pairs very well with the local cuisine.
Our itinerary
September 4, 2019: Arrival in Valença do Minho, North Portugal, on the eve of the start of our Camino walk. Valença do Minho has a beautiful medieval fortress Fortaleza de Valença aka Fortaleza de Valença do Minho boasts over 800 years history with major updates during the 17th century Restoration War in the Vauban style that evolved during the early modern period of gunpowder when the cannon came to dominate the battlefield. - walk to 14th-century Igreja de Santo .
September 5, 2019: Valença do Minho ⇒ O Porriño (20 km / 12.4 miles). Tui is the bordering town between Spain and Portugal that share a border in the form of the Miño River. Before the mid-1880s, pilgrims had to cross the river River Miño by boat, but now you can walk over the Ponte Internacional Tui-Valenca bridge.
Tui was once the capital of a province in the Old Kingdom of Galicia and is the home to The Cathedral of St. Mary of the Assumption of Tui, at the heart of the town it a most auspicious way to start our walk! Dating back to the 11th century, the cathedral built in stunning Romanesque style has a Gothic facade believed to be one of the earliest pieces of Gothic art in Spain.
When you leave Tui, you walk past the temple of San Bartolomeu de Rebordáns, then the bridge of San Telmo, over the River San Simón to O Porriño. We were careful to take the alternative Camino through A Gándaras and the River Louro valley to avoid crossing the Poligono industrial park. Our reward was an enchanting walk on ancient Roman Via XIX through a verdant stretch of lush fluvial forest with cool flowing water where we dipped our feet.
Sightseeing tip: O Porriño is famous for the town hall, a 19th-century building by the renowned architect Antonio Palacios, made of local pink granite (“Rosa Porriño Granite”).
Peregrino tip: In nearby Budiño, there is a lake formed by the River Louro, frequented by migratory birds
September 6, 2019 O Porriño ⇒ Arcade (22 km / 13.6 miles). This section leaves O Porriño heading to Mos and then past the village of Sanguiñeda (with the Santiaguiño’s chapel). Expect to encounter some uphill stretches on the Road of the Knights but it is over a long distance so the incline is gradual. The day ends at the Galician coast in Arcade, a city famous for its oyster festival that takes place every year.
Sightseeing tip: The Roman bridge at Pontesampaio used to have 10 arches, although the current bridge dates from medieval times. It crossed the River Verdugo and played a key role in the battles that ended the French occupation in the 19th century.
Peregrino tip: Before you reach Mos, on the road known as the “Camiño das Tapias”, by the house of the local poet María Magdalena Domínguez, you will find the Cruz Alta de Serodio, where pilgrims usually stop and leave a stone with their promises and wishes.
September 7, 2019 Arcade ⇒ Pontevedra (13 km / 8 miles).
We began the day by climbing the ancient stone paths of the Verea Vella da Canicouva. You can explore the 13th-century Church of Santa Maria with its wonderful views over the Bay of Vigo before arriving in Pontevedra.
The old city of Pontevedra, with the River Lérez flowing through it, is considered the second most important old town in Galicia after Santiago de Compostela. Here you will find the church of the Virxe da Peregrina, along with several public squares, including Praza da Ferrería, Praza da Leña and Praza da Verdura; all buzzing with locals and pilgrims enjoying the local cuisine with tapas and Alberino wine.
Peregrino tip: In Pontevedra, on the first Saturday in September they hold the Feira Franca, a medieval fair dates back to the year 1467 when King Enrique IV bestowed upon Pontevedra the right to hold a tax-free open market for one month, from the last two weeks of August to the first two weeks of September. This inspired the wealthy merchants of the time to celebrate which they did with a huge festival, beginning Friday morning and ending on Saturday night.
September 8, 2019 Day-trip to Castle Sotomaior
The origin of Castelo de Soutomaior or Castle Sotomaior, dates back to the 12th century during the reign of Alfonso VII. The most infamous of its leaders was Pedro Álvarez de Soutomaior (or Sotomayor), the illegitimate brother of the ruler popularly known as Pedro Madruga (c. 1430 – 1486), the Count of Caminha is an example of the romantic gallant European feudal knight. He gained his nickname, "Madruga" because he was an "early riser". Credited with the introduction of firearms in Galicia that rendered vulnerable the chain link armoured coats of the day. He was one of the leading figures who suppressed the Irmandiño peasant revolt in Galicia in the 1460s, and he was also involved in the War of the Castilian Succession after the death of King Enrique IV in 1474.
September 9, 2019 Pontevedra ⇒ Caldas de Reis (22 km / 13.6 miles). You leave Pontevedra by walking past the Iglesia de la Virgen Peregrina church, one of the most famous monuments in this city. Next walk across the bridge of O Burgo, crossing the River Lérez until you reach Alba, where you find the Romanesque church of Santa María. Then the path goes on the ancient Via Romana XIX past A Portela and Briallos. Along the way, you walk through chestnut groves, pine and eucalyptus woods, crisscrossing railway tracks. You also have to walk a short distance along the main road. After you cross the river Umia, you reach Caldas de Reis, where you can enjoy the thermal spring waters with their curative powers at one of the many balnearios (spa centres), renowned since Roman times. Just before you enter the town you will find a Roman bridge over the River Bermaño.
Sightseeing tip: Caldas de Reis is the birthplace of Alfonso VII, the first Emperor of Castile, son of Doña Urraca, whose home was in Campo de la Torre. While the tower itself was demolished at the end of the 19th century, you can still see traces including old windows on the outer part of the ambulatory
Peregrino tip: In the municipalities of Meis and Ribadumia, many pilgrims decide to go to the Ruta da Pedra e da Auga, a walk that runs through streams and almost 50 restored water mills upstream all the way to the Cistercian monastery of Armenteira, where there is a hostel. There are signs along the route to return to the Camino
September 10, 2019 Caldas de Reis ⇒ Padrón (19 km / 11.8 miles).
You leave Caldas de Reis through the viaduct across the river Umia, and across a mountainous stretch that leads to O Cruceiro. The Camino then runs along a stretch of main road to O Pino to the river Valga, which is close to Pontecesures, named after a Roman bridge built to cross the River Ulla. You then reach Padrón, in the province of A Coruña, famous for its peppers (“os pementos de Padrón, uns pican e outros non” or 'Padrón peppers, some hot and some not' is a common idiom describing these small but tasty peppers of capricious spiciness). Tradition has it that it was here that the boat coming from the Holy Land carrying the body of the Apostle James was moored on the “pedrón”, a granite block still preserved under the altar of the church of Santiago. Padrón is also the hometown of the most famous Galician poet of all times, Rosalía de Castro. The highlight of Padrón is the beautiful square in front of the cathedral with a boulevard of trees on both sides.
Sightseeing tip: Every Sunday, Padrón hosts the largest street market in Galicia. Thousands of people come to see, buy and taste the best products in this district.
Peregrino tip: On the other side of the River Sar, across the bridge of Santiago, lies the 16th-century fountain of o Carme. Behind it, you can see the Carmelite monastery, the Convento do Carme, built on the bedrock. You have a nice view from here.
September 11, 2019 Padrón ⇒ Santiago de Compostela (24 km / 14.9 miles)
The first part of the day it’s flat mostly through the forest, the second part has a couple of hills to conquer, but all this is nothing compared to the excitement and happiness you experience approaching the Cathedral. You leave Padrón and go past the church of Santiago towards the Colegiata of Iria Flavia, where Nobel Literature Prize Camilo José Cela is buried. His museum is just opposite the beautiful church of Iria Flavia. Closely is A Escravitude with its Baroque church; continue onto Rúa de Francos, where you will find the oldest “cruceiro” (stone cross) in Galicia at Parada da Francos. The route gets busier today as you head towards Santiago, but there are still pleasant sections through oak, pine and eucalyptus woodlands. You will soon spot the spires of the magnificent cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Continue through villages and woodlands, until you reach O Milladoiro, a small town before Santiago de Compostela. The name O Milladoiro is derived from “humilladoiro” because pilgrims prostrated (humillarse) themselves on catching sight of the towers of the Cathedral on the horizon. You'll find your pace quickening as you make a beeline for Obradoiro Square in front of the Cathedral of Santiago de Compostela. Congratulations, you've reached your goal!
September 12/13, 2019 Sight-seeing in Santiago de Compostela
Peregrino tip: Every pilgrim that walked 100km or more to Santiago can get a Compostela – an accreditation of pilgrimage to the tomb of St. Jacob. Go early morning to join the queue at go the Pilgrim's Office. The Certificate costs 3 Euro. You can buy a Tubo (cardboard tube) to put your Credentials and Certificate in to ensure they won’t tear or get dirty.
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