Azulejos

Azulejos - the captivating white and blue Portuguese hand-painted ceramic tiles 

Azulejos in Sintra: Quinta da Regaleira

Strolling the streets of Portugal, it’s impossible to miss the Azulejos - striking white and blue ceramic tiles, which are more than just decorative tiles; they represent a rich tapestry of Portuguese heritage and craftsmanship and are as synonymous with Portugal as Fado and Bacalhau codfish.

As we shall soon see, the fusion of diverse influences — Islamic, Moorish, Spanish, and Dutch — gave rise to the unique style of Portuguese azulejos, a testament to the cultural exchange and artistic cross-pollination during Portugal's golden age of exploration. 

source: VectorStock

Called azulejos (from the Arabic word 'al zuleique', which means “little polished stone”), the tiles were originally brought to Europe by invading Moors in the 13th century. Portuguese azulejo tiles are heavily influenced by arabesques - a style that employs flowing lines, stars, flowers, foliage, fruits and sometimes animal and figural outlines to produce an intricate pattern of interlaced lines that can be tiled in endless combinations. Arabic calligraphy also found its way into Portuguese tile design, with verses from the Quran or poetic texts inscribed on the tiles. These inscriptions added a spiritual and intellectual dimension to their visual appeal. The delicate balance between mathematical precision and aesthetic beauty became a hallmark of Islamic-inspired azulejos.

From intricate patterns to elaborate narratives, Portuguese tiles are a testament to the skill and creativity of the artisans who crafted them, and they continue to be treasured and celebrated to this day. They have been widely used to embellish both public and private buildings, churches, palaces, and even humble homes. Integrating azulejos into architectural design has not only added beauty and elegance but also served practical purposes such as insulation and protection against the elements.

Azulejos in Portugal

The first use of azulejos in Portugal can be traced back to the late 15th century when King Manuel visited Seville in Spain and was enthralled by the shiny tiles around the city. He decided to bring this showy art to Portugal and used it to decorate the walls of his castle: the Sintra National Palace.


By the 16th century, Portugal was importing azulejos from Spain, particularly those from the region of Seville. The Spanish introduced tin-glazed tiles, known as "azulejos de cuerda seca," which involved applying tin oxide over the glaze to create a white background. This technique allowed for vibrant cobalt blue pigments to stand out, resulting in a striking visual contrast.

Early Portuguese azulejos were often adorned with blue, yellow, green, and white colours. However, during the 16th century, blue and white tiles became the most prevalent because European artists were enraptured with Chinese porcelain. However, the ingredients to make this porcelain did not exist in Europe, making Chinese porcelain a rarity. 

In the 17th century, the Dutch began copying this style. The Portuguese loved this affordable option and ordered tiles from the Dutch to decorate buildings. The Dutch, known for their mastery of ceramic arts, also left their mark on Portuguese tiles. Dutch tile painters introduced narrative elements, depicting scenes from mythology, history, and daily life. These storytelling tiles often portrayed intricate details and conveyed a sense of movement and drama. The Dutch influence encouraged Portuguese artists to explore new subjects and experiment with depicting complex narratives within the limited space of the tiles. The Portuguese, later on, began manufacturing their own in white and blue at a large scale. The “Ciclo dos Mestres” (the cycle of masters) hired renowned painters to design works in this format and begin to manufacture on a large scale, thus tile painters finally gained the status of “artists” by creating original pieces and signing their works. The 17th century in Portugal was by far the century of patterns, more than 1,000 patterns have been meticulously documented and they are still discovering new patterns from that era. 

Lisbon's Mirador of St. Lucia depicting the Battle for Lisbon

In the 18th century, influenced by Baroque trends, narratives entered azulejos. This is the period of the blue and white tiles you can see so many examples of, but that was a short window in Portugal’s azulejos history. During this century, churches and palaces became like books you could read, with stories and narratives told through their azulejos.

During the reconstruction following the devastation of the great 1755 Lisbon earthquake, instead of restoring the original artworks, azulejos tiles with repetitive geometric patterns were widely used as the work was fast and cheap. These tiles became known as “Pombalinos”, with a clear reference to Sebastiao José De Carvalho E. M. Pombal aka the Marquês de Pombal, the person mainly responsible for the reconstruction of Lisbon.


The 19th century saw azulejos being put on the facades of buildings for the first time, embellishing their exteriors. The bourgeoisie began using azulejos on their own residences during this time to identify their houses and show they had importance and money. So azulejos became a statement of a new class in society.

Then came the 20th century, the moment we see azulejos used as urban art in the city squares, train stations and parks. The subway in Lisbon is considered one of the most beautiful in the world because it’s filled with azulejos designed in the 1950s by Portuguese artist Maria Keil who passed away in 2012.

Making the Azulejos tiles

The process begins with high-quality clay, which forms the base of the tiles. This clay is meticulously sourced and processed to achieve the desired consistency and strength. Artisans then apply glazes to the tiles, such as tin and lead glaze. The tin glaze creates a glossy white surface, while lead glaze allows for a vibrant range of colours. 

After the glazing process, the tiles undergo firing in kilns at high temperatures. This firing process fuses the clay and glazes together, resulting in durable and long-lasting tiles that can withstand the test of time.

Sant'Anna in Lisbon is the oldest tile factory in Portugal and it's still operating! It has existed in the city since 1741, survived the catastrophic earthquake of 1755 that devastated much of Lisbon and still uses the traditional handcrafted techniques of old. Today, more than 90% of its production is sent abroad.

Some examples of Portuguese Azulejos

Porto's  São Bento metro station - a labour of love

São Bento Railway Station in Porto is the quintessential place to find this ancient art. The station was built in 1903 and is covered with over 20,000 hand-painted tiles azulejo covering 550 square meters, by Portuguese artist Jorge Colaço depicting important historical moments from the North of Portugal, including the region's transportation evolution, crucial marriages, and defining conquests in Portugal's history.

Jorge Colaço's azulejos in Panjim, Goa c1935.

Unbeknownst to me, the same Jorge Colaço (1868–1942) left his inedible mark in Panjim, Goa at the former Central Library — now officially known as the Krishnadas Shama Goa Central Library — where you can still see five floor-to-ceiling panels, on the ground floor of the Institute Menezes Braganza, painted in blue and white with ornate gold borders depict scenes from the Portuguese epic poem Os Lusíadas written by Luís Vaz de Camões, regarded as Portugal’s greatest poet. Each of these extraordinary panels bears an inscription at the bottom right: ‘Jorge Colaço, 3-7-1935’.

Casa do Ferreira das Tabuletas in Lisbon

In Lisbon, another must-see is Casa do Ferreira das Tabuletas, the city's most photographed tiled façade, located in Chiado. Adorned with yellow and orange tiles, it depicts mythological images representing Earth, Water, Science, Agriculture, Commerce, and Industry. At the top, you'll find a star with a single eye symbolizing the creator of the universe.

Conclusion

The art and history of azulejos have left an indelible mark on Portuguese culture and heritage. These vibrant and intricate tiles have adorned buildings, churches, and public spaces for centuries, captivating the eyes and hearts of locals and visitors alike. The enduring legacy of Portuguese tile-making is a testament to the skill, creativity, and craftsmanship of the artisans who have dedicated themselves to this art form throughout history.

References

1. The Art and History of Azulejos - Exploring Portuguese tiles. (n.d.). Bonte Filipidis. Retrieved May 19, 2024, from https://bontefilipidis.com/the-art-and-history-of-azulejos-exploring-portuguese-tiles/
2. Azulejos - Discover the famous Portuguese tiles. (2023, July 1). Portugal Simple Life. Retrieved May 19, 2024, from https://www.portugal-the-simple-life.com/post/azulejos-portuguese-tiles
3. Rosa, S. (2020, November 10). 10 things you didn’t know about the Portuguese Azulejo tiles (By Cerdeira). Aldeia De Xisto Cerdeira - Alojamento. Retrieved May 19, 2024, from https://www.cerdeirahomeforcreativity.com/our-blog/2019/9/2/10-things-you-didnt-about-the-the-portuguese-azulejo-tiles